A Gourmand's Life

Pity Tony May. In deference to the modern dining zeitgeist - as preached by Bruni and his acolytes - May, the restaurateur’s restaurateur, spent millions to move, relaunch and even rename his beloved San Domenico, only to have a new critic at the Times - one with an altogether different aesthetic - blast him for it. Despite what you may have heard, SD26, the result of May’s determination to persevere, is neither inelegant nor impersonal. The white tablecloths remain, but in the fashion of downtown, the greeting is a little warmer, the service a little looser, the modern white decor warmed up by splashes of red and vibrant fabric sculptures adorning the walls.


Most importantly Odette Fada is still behind the stove. No doubt San Domenico could be maddening at times due to the occasional lapses in quality, sometimes within the same meal, but Fada has always been a chef who could knock one out of the park, especially with pastas. The memory of her Agnolotti del Plin, little crescents of joy, served in a pool of veal stock with shaved white truffles, still brings tears to my eyes and drool to my lips.

I have only been to SD26 once, for restaurant week, but clearly this is a kitchen still capable of quality work. Yes, the signature Uovo, one raviolo filled with a soft egg yolk and blanketed in butter and Parmigiano Reggiano, could have used more truffle butter (not to mention white truffles), but it is still an iconic dish that never fails to excite.



My wife's starter, Farro and Borlotti Bean Soup, was pure San Domenico, a refined, clean version of an Italian peasant dish that maintained its warmth and comfort factor.



For her main course she chose a pasta, the Chitarra SD26, tomato and basil sauce. I do so wish that the city's best Italian chefs would save this dish for tomato season, but this version was interesting for its bright, almost citrusy acidity.
 
 
I finished with Pan Roasted Guinea Hen with Chestnuts and Leeks. The hen was cooked perfectly, except for a touch of flabby skin on one piece. A little more attention to detail is necessary with a dining room that can sit 300, a fact that the kitchen will come to realize in time. Still, this was a simple but well done dish.
 
 
For dessert we sampled a vanilla bean Panna Cotta with Balsamic Vinegar Reduction as well as the ice creams and sorbets of the day. Panna Cotta has never been my favorite of the cooked custards due to the use of gelatin to set it, which can result in an unpleasant texture. This version, although a tad too sweet, had the creamiest, smoothest texture I have ever seen in a Panna Cotta, at times threatening to wobble right off the side of its dish.
 
 
The ice creams were good, not great, but I did enjoy a sorbet made with Greek yogurt.
 
 
The restauarnt has taken a bit of flack for its electronic wine list, probably from those who remember the slow and unwieldy thing from the old Aureole. Much to my surprise, this little device worked quickly, was sensitive to the touch and easy to read. I will always prefer the bulky wine list that threatens to knock every glass off the table, but I could get used to this thing. If you come with an open mind I think you will get used to the new San Domenico as well. To Mr. May, his daughter Marisa,and chef Fada, congratulations on your return.