Thursday, January 7, 2010

GALETTE DES ROIS



Yesterday marked the Epiphany, or Three Kings Day. While others marked the occasion in, perhaps, a more appropriate fashion, I made sure to pick up a Galette des Rois, or King's Cake, a traditional pastry eaten on the festival of the Epiphany throughout France. Consisting of two layers of puff pastry sandwiching a filling of frangipane and occasionally pastry cream, the galette usually contains a lucky charm which can range from a simple bean to a tiny plastic figurine of the baby Jesus. The person who finds it in their slice is king or queen for the day and gets to wear a paper crown.

The cake pictured here is from Madeleine Patisserie, a small shop on 23rd Street near my office. Being more of a Viennoiserie, they figured to do a good job with this cake, and they did, although a bit of pastry cream with the frangipane would have been nice.

I have always been fascinated with food traditions, particularly how specific holidays, both religious and otherwise, have spurred dishes that are still enjoyed today. You can find me hunting down some good Hamantaschen during Purim and Qatayef during Ramadan. When it comes to food, I am completely non-denominational.

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Wikipedia describes a gourmand as “a person who takes great pleasure in food.” According to the Miriam Webster dictionary a gourmand is “a person who is excessively fond of eating and drinking.” What appeals to me about the second definition is that there is still a vestige of disapproval that clings to it, to the point where the French have advocated that the Catholic Church update the list of the Seven Deadly Sins by replacing “gourmandise” with “gloutonnerie”.

In the same spirit as the late, great eater R. W. Apple described himself as “more gourmand than gourmet”, I view life as one in which the search for good food encompasses eating at Michelin three-stars twice a day for a week, to hunting down the best dumpling house in NYC. Moderation plays no part.

Jason Sheehan wrote, “The world is full of fence-sitters, abstentious temperate fellows for whom a little is always enough, and I will not go down as one of their number.”

Greece 2009

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Spain 2007

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