A Gourmand's Life

If there is still any doubt in anyone’s mind that food websites and blogs have replaced the mainstream print media as the most reliable source of intelligent restaurant criticism, the response to SHO Shaun Hergatt should put it to rest. Relegated to a few paragraphs by the Times fill-in critic and predictably misunderstood by Adam Platt, SHO Shaun Hergatt is the most important restaurant to open in New York since Corton, and has been widely praised as such on many credible food sites and blogs.


The restaurant’s décor is the first element to have been found wanting. “Sho Shaun Hergatt…feels as if it could be almost anywhere in the world, which is to say, nowhere in particular”, Wells writes. “We are in Dubai,” his friend says. The notion expressed in Wells piece is that –apparently unbeknownst to everyone except him - there is an established standard of décor that New York restaurants must adhere to. I can only say that if this is what restaurants look like in Dubai, Hong Kong, or wherever, we need more of them.

The restaurant itself is located in the Financial district on the second floor of the new Setai condominium building, currently covered over by the type of scaffolding that threatens to blanket the city like a descending cloud of green slime. Once exiting off of the elevator you enter a large space that includes a beautiful bar made of mother-of-pearl, a separate room for group dining beyond that, and a proper lounge where you will probably be asked to wait until the exact moment of your scheduled reservation. Following a walk down a striking hallway lined with wine bottles and centered by a narrow infinity pool with floating candles, you arrive at the dining room proper, with its gorgeous dark wood décor and red and gold Asian accents. The comfortable leather chairs invite you to sit back, relax and enjoy the excellent view of chef Hergatt and his team at work in the glass enclosed kitchen. The entire feel is rather spa-like - elegant but calming.

The food is anything but calm- this is some of the most flavorful, refined and beautiful food being served in New York today, reflecting both Chef Hergatt’s Australian heritage and French training. Recent meals began with amuses bouche including a shot glass of intense lobster gelee, a perfectly crisp goat cheese millefeuille and a lovely soft egg with caviar. First courses included a Tartare of Ocean Trout, Roe and Kalamansi Dressing - the latter addition a reflection of Hergatt’s interest in unusual Asian ingredients - that provides just the right amount of citrus to a dish often overwhelmed by it. Sweetbreads Poele were crisp and luscious, served over Black Truffle Risotto, the whole dish reaching a crescendo with the addition of a bit of 10-year Balsamic Vinegar. Slow Poached Egg served over Sunchoke Puree with bits of Berkshire Pork Cheek was executed perfectly. I could eat it for breakfast every day, forever.

My favorite main course has been the short rib dish of my dreams, the Three Day Short Rib, Hazelnut and Cranberry Crust, Parsnip Puree. The meat, manicured into a perfect little rectangle, practically dissolves into a puddle upon contact with the fork. “River and Glenn” Rabbit Loins with Coco Beans, Baby Spinach and Natural Sauce is also quite stunning, the loin cooked sous-vide, sliced and then given a slight caramelization. The frothy, buttery sauce helps to nurse more flavor out of the rabbit, which can tend towards the bland side these days. A perfectly cooked piece of Cod, brought to life by a fennel spice crust and an orange and Kaffir Lime creme, supports the chef’s reputation as an adept handler of seafood, as does the Butter Poached Lobster.

Desserts by Mina Pizarro, formerly of Per Se and Veritas, have been thoroughly enjoyable if a bit subdued flavor wise compared to what precedes them. My favorites have been a Vanilla Bean Bavarois and an excellent Butterscotch Parfait with Candied Honey Crisp Apple.

The “mainstream” press may continue to harp on their insignificant talking points - SHO Shaun Hergatt sources product globally, resuscitates French-Asian fusion, and is rather extravagantly designed compared to the uncomfortable, noisy dungeons that have been so in vogue recently. Thankfully, there are many more knowledgeable voices out there who have gotten the message out. Fine dining is alive and well on Broad Street.