A Gourmand's Life

Many of New York’s foodIE elite raised their eyebrows when Michelin awarded a star to Rhong-Tiam, the Thai restaurant on LaGuardia in the West Village. Michelin is widely considered to be either ignorant or dismissive of Asian cuisine, and the nature of some foodies is to have an adverse reaction when trumped on a discovery. But Rhong-Tiam is the real thing, by far the best Thai restaurant in Manhattan. Only repeated visits will determine if it can reach the high notes of Sripriphai while avoiding its inconsistencies.

The Larb Gai is outstanding. Although chicken is used here, it is given more character by being coarsely ground, and freshly cooked. Like the gold standard for this dish, the Northern Larb served at Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas - which is made without lime juice - this version avoids the overdose of citrus so often found in inferior versions.

Unlike most Thai restaurants, Rhong-Tiam makes their fresh curry pastes and coconut milk. The difference was notable in the Duck with Red Curry, the sweetness of the coconut milk balanced nicely by just enough heat. Unlike many bad Thai restaurants that cook all their proteins into indistinguishable mystery meat, Rhong-Tiam presents a portion of thinly sliced duck breast that maintains its integrity, and crisp skin, by avoiding immersion in the sauce until serving.

Khao Soi, listed on the menu as Chiang Mai Noodles, is a huge bowl of fine egg noodles in a luxurious yellow curry, topped with fried noodles and shrimp. This version of the distinctly Northern Thai street food specialty is a bit more refined and subtle but a pleasure to eat nonetheless.

After the curries a dry dish was called for and the signature Pork on Fire fit the bill. Small chunks of pork are cooked with garlic, ginger and fresh chilies and are topped with fried lemongrass, Thai basil and kaffir lime leaves. The spice is masterfully handled here, arriving on the finish as an after note to the bold flavors.

Unfortunately, as is the case with Laut, another terrific new Asian restaurant, chef-owner Andy Yang has seen fit to include many Americanized Thai dishes, particularly among the appetizers, to help attract the crowds. I suggest that you avoid them, but do visit Rhong-Tiam soon, and often, as I plan too. Manhattan has, remarkably, been without a noteworthy Thai restaurant until its arrival.