A Gourmand's Life

Museum Mile is one of my favorite areas of the city, an alluring stretch of Fifth Avenue with some of the world's finest museums standing in the glorious shadow of Central Park.Like Chicago's skyscrapers, it is a marvelous example of civic engineering and a calling card worthy of a great city. It might be easy to lose sight of the Neue Galerie, a tiny spot on the corner of 86th Street, among the heavy hitters in the neighborhood. This riny gem houses a remarkable collection of early twentieth-century art from Austria and Germany as well as Cafe Sabarsky, an absolutely charming recreation of a kaffehause of the era, complete with period pieces and a grand piano.

Better yet, the cafe is in the capable hands of Kurt Gutenbrunner, another Bouley alumnus and chef/proprietor of the Michelin-starred Wallse. There is a large selection of composed salads and cold plates, such as Palatschinken with Smoked Trout and Horseradish as well as Avocado Salad with Crabmeat and Tomatoes, but they tend to be served too cold, as if plated ahead.

Better bets are the dishes the menu borrows from its big brother's menu, such as the Kavalierspitz, a homely but delicious hunk of boiled beef shoulder and humble root vegetables, sort of an Austrian pot-au-feu. There is a selection of wursts from Schaller & Weber, such as a simply boiled Weisswurst with a pungent, mustardy potato salad, and my favorite, Roasted Bratwurst with Riesling Sauerkraut and Roasted Potatoes.

As lovely as the period decor is, the most attention is drawn by the side board displaying an array of Austrian desserts, most of which look better than they taste, with the exception of an excellent, tart Apple Strudel, which you should enjoy with a cup of freshly brewed Meinl coffee or a Viennese Hot Chocolate.

While I believe Guttenbrunner could tighten up the food quality a bit here, Cafe Sabarsky is undeniably charming, a loving recreation that gets all of the details right. It is an oasis of civility and sophistication that fits its surroundings like a glove.